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How to choose a front-door lock that insurers accept

Close-up of a secure lock dial representing insurance-approved lock standards

Not every lock that feels solid is enough for home insurance. Here is what to look for before you buy or upgrade a front-door lock.

A front-door lock has two jobs: it needs to keep the door secure, and it needs to satisfy the wording in your home insurance policy. Those are not always the same thing. Plenty of older locks still turn smoothly and feel solid, but they may not carry the British Standard markings an insurer asks for after a break-in.

Start with the door type

Most timber front doors use a mortice deadlock, a nightlatch, or both. Most uPVC and composite doors use a multipoint mechanism with a euro cylinder. The right lock choice depends on which setup you have. A good locksmith will look at the door, frame, handle set and existing lock before recommending anything.

What insurers normally want

  • BS3621 markings on timber-door mortice locks or suitable final-exit locks.
  • A five-lever mortice deadlock where the policy specifies one for a wooden final exit door.
  • A properly rated euro cylinder for uPVC and composite doors, ideally anti-snap and fitted flush.
  • A working final exit setup that can be secured properly when you leave the property.

If those terms sound familiar, read our plain-English guide to BS3621 lock standards. The short version: look for the British Standard kitemark and make sure the lock type matches the door and your policy wording.

The common mistake: buying a strong-looking lock

A heavy lock is not automatically insurance-approved. A smart lock, keypad, nightlatch or decorative handle can all be useful, but the important question is whether the locking mechanism behind it meets the required standard. For uPVC doors, the cylinder size matters too. If it sticks out too far, it is easier to attack even if the brand is decent.

When to upgrade

  • You have moved into a new home and do not know how many keys exist.
  • Your policy mentions BS3621 and your lock has no visible kitemark.
  • Your euro cylinder is old, unmarked, loose or sticking out beyond the handle.
  • The door has been stiff, misaligned or hard to lock for a while.
  • You want one key for multiple doors and a cleaner key setup.

Do smart locks count?

Sometimes, but check carefully. Many smart locks sit on top of a physical lock rather than replacing the security standard. If you want keyless entry, it is usually best to keep a proper insurance-friendly lock and add the convenience layer around it. Our smart locks guide explains the trade-offs.

Two Keys Security handles lock changes and upgrades and home security surveys across Egham, Staines-upon-Thames, Windsor and Weybridge.

Security survey

Need a hand with this?

Two Keys is a father-and-son locksmith team in Egham — UKLA Trusted & Vetted, DBS-checked, fully insured. Straight prices, agreed before we set off.

We cover Egham · Staines-upon-Thames · Windsor · Weybridge and the wider Surrey, west London and east Berkshire area — see full coverage.

— Common questions

FAQs.

Does my front door lock need to be BS3621?
Many home insurance policies require BS3621 or an equivalent approved lock on external or final exit doors. Check your policy wording, then look for the British Standard kitemark on the lock.
Can I fit a smart lock and still be insured?
Often yes, but the physical lock still needs to satisfy the policy. A smart feature does not automatically replace the need for a properly rated lock.
What is the best lock for a uPVC front door?
A correctly sized anti-snap euro cylinder fitted with a sound multipoint mechanism is usually the priority. The cylinder should sit flush and carry a proper security rating.

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